Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis) is a plant traditionally used as a natural cleanser because its roots and leaves contain saponins — naturally occurring compounds that create a mild foam when mixed with water.
What soapwort is good for
- Natural cleansing: Can be made into a gentle liquid cleanser for skin, hands and hair.
- Sensitive skin: Its cleansing action is generally milder than traditional soap, making it interesting for gentle formulations.
- Hair care: Traditionally used as a botanical shampoo, particularly where a low-lather, gentle cleanser is desired.
- Delicate fabrics: Historically used to clean delicate textiles, including wool and antique fabrics, because it is relatively gentle.
- Traditional herbal use: Soapwort has a long history in European herbalism, although many traditional medicinal claims aren't well supported by modern clinical evidence.
- Natural cosmetics: Soapwort extract or decoction can be used as a source of plant-derived saponins in some natural cleansing products.
Why does it foam?
The key compounds are saponins. They have both water-loving and oil-loving portions, allowing them to surround oils and dirt and help lift them away with water. This is somewhat analogous to what surfactants do in modern shampoos and cleansers.
One important point for cosmetics: soapwort isn't the same thing as soap. It doesn't contain the sodium/potassium salts of fatty acids found in traditional soap, so it can potentially be formulated into products with a different skin feel and pH.
I am using it as part of my skincare range in my latest product Silk Ceramide Cleansing Melt – Marigold Charms.
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